By Khalid Williams, The Barrel Age
A soulful guide to a centuries-old drink that’s more than smoke and myths
If you’ve ever had a margarita or taken a shot of tequila at a cookout, you’ve already met agave. You just might not know the whole story.
And if you haven’t tried mezcal yet, you’re missing one of the most soulful and flavorful spirits in the world.
Mezcal is more than a drink. It’s patience, tradition, and the earth itself, captured in a glass. And right here in Hartford County, it’s showing up in bars and restaurants in exciting new ways.
This is your guide to mezcal: what it is, why it matters, and how to enjoy it.
Born from the Agave
Every bottle of mezcal starts with one plant: the agave. Unlike corn, grapes, or sugarcane, which grow fast and can be harvested every year, agave takes time. Most varieties need 8 to 10 years to mature, and once they’re harvested, the plant dies. Farmers must plant again and wait all over.
That patience is part of mezcal’s story. It’s a spirit that demands time, planning, and care. In Mexico, agave is considered sacred. One ancient story tells of Mayahuel, a goddess who transformed into the agave plant to nourish and protect people. When you sip mezcal, you taste centuries of culture and connection.
Rules of the Game
Not every bottle with “mezcal” on the label is the real thing. The Mexican government protects the name, just as France protects “champagne.” To be called mezcal, the spirit must be made from 100% agave and meet legal standards known as NOM-70.
For many years, only one group certified mezcal. Today, five organizations oversee production, labeling, and export. That means when you buy certified mezcal, you’re getting the real deal.
About the Worm
Way too often, people bring up “the worm in the bottle.” Here’s the truth: it’s not tradition. It was marketing.
In the 1940s, a brand called Gusano Rojo started adding a worm (known as a gusano) to bottles to get attention. The idea stuck, especially in the U.S.
The worm isn’t magical or necessary. But it did inspire something delicious: sal de gusano, dried worms ground with chile and salt, sometimes lime. It’s sprinkled on orange slices served with mezcal or used as a bold cocktail rim. Think of it like the salt on the edge of a margarita glass, but with a smoky, savory kick.
So if someone mentions the worm, you can smile and say, “The agave is the treasure. The worm is just a side note.”
Is Mezcal Always Smoky?
Not always. Mezcal’s smoky flavor comes from how it’s traditionally made. The heart of the agave, called the piña, is roasted underground over hot stones and coals. That slow cooking adds a deep, roasted character.
But the best mezcals are balanced. They highlight the natural flavor of the agave — floral, citrus, earthy — with the smoke acting as seasoning, not the whole story.
Mezcal vs. Tequila: What’s the Difference?
Tequila is actually a type of mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. The difference comes down to the plant and the process.
Tequila must be made from one type of agave, the blue agave, and it can only come from certain regions of Mexico. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from dozens of agave varieties, each bringing its own flavor. That variety is why mezcal offers a much wider range of tastes, from bright and citrusy to earthy and smoky.
Many Plants, Many Flavors
Mezcal is as diverse as the land it comes from. The most common agave used is espadín, but there are many others, like tobalá, cupreata, and duranguese. Each variety offers its own flavor profile.
There are also mezcal’s “cousins” worth knowing:
- Raicilla from Jalisco, rustic and complex.
- Bacanora from Sonora, bright and bold.
- Sotol, made from a desert plant, not agave, but similar in taste and tradition.
Every region, every plant, and every maker adds something unique.
Why Mezcal Is Rising Now
Mezcal might be new to many people in the U.S., but in Mexico, it’s been part of life for centuries. Only in the last decade has it become widely available here, and now bartenders are building menus around it.
There are a few reasons why:
- Flavor: No two bottles taste the same. One might be citrusy, another smoky, another earthy.
- Craftsmanship: Many mezcals are made by small family producers, using traditional methods passed down for generations. These aren’t factory spirits. They’re handmade.
It’s no wonder mezcal is appearing more often in Hartford, West Hartford, New Britain, and beyond.
How to Try Mezcal
Mezcal is strong, usually 45–50% alcohol, so a little goes a long way. Don’t throw it back like a shot. Sip it slowly, like you would a fine whiskey, and let the flavors unfold.
Here’s how to start:
- Order a mezcal flight. Ask for small pours (about a quarter ounce) of several varieties so you can taste the differences.
- Try it neat before mixing. Then, try a Mezcal Margarita for a smoky twist on a classic.
- Pair it with an orange slice dipped in sal de gusano for a traditional experience.
Where to Try Mezcal in Hartford County
